Faucet & Sink Repair
Drips, stuck handles, balky stop valves, washer boxes and hose bibs.
A spigot that drips is easy to ignore, until the bill arrives or water seeps into the wall behind it.
By the Laveen AZ Plumbing team ·
Open the spigot with a hose attached, then without. A leak at the handle means the packing nut or washer is worn. A leak at the spout when closed means the washer or seat. A leak at the wall means the pipe behind it may be at fault.
Tighten the packing nut by a quarter turn. If it still weeps, replace the packing or the washer. Many spigots accept a standard repair kit.
The place the water appears points to the part.
| Where it leaks | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Around the handle | Worn packing | Snug or replace the packing |
| From the spout when closed | Worn washer or seat | Replace the washer or stem |
| From the vacuum breaker with the hose off | Worn device | Replace the device |
| At the wall | Pipe behind the spigot | Call for a leak check |
A hardened washer lets water pass. Sun and heat bake plastic and rubber, so parts fail faster in the desert. Replace the washer or the stem.
Water at the wall base can run along the pipe into the house. Check inside the wall below for stains. If a pipe is leaking behind the spigot, call for water line repair or leak detection.
Many spigots have a vacuum breaker that spits water when the hose is on. That is normal. A device that leaks when the hose is off may need replacing. See backflow testing for related rules.
If the body is corroded, replacement is better than patching. A plumber can swap it and check the shutoff. See faucet and valve repair for details.
Inside a standard hose bib, a stem carries a rubber washer that squeezes onto a seat as the handle closes, and a packing nut around the stem stops water from creeping out at the handle. Frost-free bibs use a long stem so the seat sits well back inside the wall, which means a failed seat can drip into the wall cavity out of sight.
Knowing the type helps. A conventional bib fails at the handle or the spout. A long-stem bib can drip inside the wall with no sign outdoors until the stain shows up.
Turn off the water to the spigot if there is a shutoff, or close the main. Unscrew the handle, then the packing nut. Wrap a small amount of packing or replace the washer. Match the replacement parts by size, since several sizes exist. Reassemble, turn on the water and check for weeping at the handle.
If the spout drips when closed, the washer or seat is the likely cause. Replacing the stem assembly is sometimes easier than rebuilding it.
Do not leave a hose attached when it is not in use, particularly on a frost-free bib. In the desert, a hose left under the sun can build pressure and stress the connection. A leak that runs into the wall can soak insulation and stucco, and moisture trapped there invites mold. Look for stains on the inside wall, soft drywall and a smell near the spigot.
If you see signs, shut off the supply and have the bib checked. Faucet and valve repair includes outdoor bibs, and wall leaks may involve water line repair.
Hard freezes are not common, but they do happen, and an exposed bib with a hose attached can freeze and split. A split bib may not show a leak until the pipe thaws. Disconnect hoses during cold nights and consider an insulated cover.
If the spigot sputters, drips with the hose on and stops with it off, the vacuum breaker may be at fault. See backflow testing and prevention for how these devices protect the drinking supply.
Hose bib parts come in a surprising number of sizes. Take the old washer, stem or packing to the store so you can compare. Brass parts resist corrosion better than cheap alloys. If the bib has a stamped model name, look it up for a repair kit that fits. If the body is cracked or the threads are stripped, replacing the whole bib is simpler.
Soldered copper connections are a job for a plumber. A threaded replacement is more forgiving, but the supply must be shut off and the new bib sealed correctly, so a mistake can cause a leak in the wall.
Many Valley homes connect irrigation timers, drip lines and hoses to the same spigot. A timer that holds pressure on the bib all day puts constant stress on the washer and the threads. Using a quick-connect fitting can reduce twisting. Check that the vacuum breaker on the bib is intact. A missing or damaged one can let the water in a hose back into the home supply.
If a garden hose is left attached under the sun, the water inside heats up and expands. Releasing the hose when not in use is a simple habit that protects both the hose and the bib.
A spigot that drips steadily from the base, water in the garage or crawlspace wall below the bib and a swollen baseboard inside are signs of a wall leak. A wet patch in the soil beneath the bib can come from a leak in the supply line behind it. In those cases, shut off the water to the spigot, and if the leak persists, close the main valve. A contractor can open the wall only as much as needed and repair the line. Describe the stain and its location on the call.
The washer or the vacuum breaker may be worn.
Yes, if water runs along the pipe.
It varies. Sun and hard water shorten life.
For a leak at the wall or a corroded body, yes.
Drips, stuck handles, balky stop valves, washer boxes and hose bibs.
Locate water escaping from walls, floors, the yard or irrigation pipe without tearing things open first.
Annual testing and upkeep of the assembly that keeps irrigation water out of the drinking supply.
One bucket and a day of waiting separate normal evaporation from a leak. Learn the steps and how to read the result.
Sudden bill jumps rarely have one cause. Compare leaks, heavy use, sprinklers and billing quirks to see which fits.
Locate the shutoff while nothing is wrong. This guide shows common hiding places and how to close the valve without breaking it.
Close the supply and call. A contractor can be arranged from there.
Service area centered on Laveen and nearby Maricopa County cities.